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  • Selecting Starting Hands in Omaha Hi/Lo

    Posted under Pro Tips by on Tuesday 7 July 2009 at 8:43 am

    Selecting Starting Hands in Omaha Hi/Lo

    Chip Jett

    I firmly believe that it’s impossible to play too tight in Omaha Hi/Lo, especially in a ring game. I’ll be the first to admit that it’s not especially fun to play the game that tight, but if you have the patience for it, it’s as good a game as any to make money in.

    Here’s an idea of how tight I play Omaha Hi/Lo: if I’m playing HORSE and get dealt 10 Omaha Hi/Lo hands before we move on to the next game, there’s a good chance I won’t play a single hand. On average, I’ll probably only play one hand per round. It’s a tight strategy, but in a game like Omaha Hi/Lo where so many players don’t understand the strength of their hand and will make mistakes, it’s a winning strategy.

    When it comes to starting hands, I never voluntarily put money into the pot with a hand that doesn’t have an Ace in it, under any circumstances. Usually, I need A-2. That’s the ideal, A-2 with a couple of other low cards. I’ll also play A-3, provided the Ace is suited.

    When you start loosening your hand requirements, that’s when you get into trouble. Say I had a hand like A-4-7-9 with the Ace suited. That hand is very much on the fence. I know that a lot of people play that hand, but it’s actually a hand that’s easy to get into trouble with. If I fold that hand and then I see a flop come out that would have been good for me, I don’t get upset about it. That’s because against other hands that my opponents might be playing, my A-4-7-9 could be very vulnerable.

    What you should really be looking for is a hand where all of your cards work together. Here’s a classic example of a horrible Omaha Hi/Lo hand where your cards do not work together well: K-10-3-4. Some people see that hand and say, “That hand has a little high potential and a little low potential.” Indeed it does have a little potential – very little. Those are two bad high cards and two bad low cards.

    Any time that your four cards aren’t working together in some way, it’s a good indication that you shouldn’t be playing the hand in Omaha Hi/Lo. When people who are used to playing Hold ‘em look at an Omaha Hi/Lo hand, they see all of these combinations and say, “I had a pair” or “I had a flush draw” or “I had a low draw.” But you need those things in combination.

    If all of your cards work together, you’re playing 16 hands, whereas if your opponent’s cards are split, he’s playing about four hands. Needless to say, if all of your cards work together, that gives you a big edge in Omaha Hi/Lo.


    Pre-Game Online Tells

    Posted under Pro Tips by on Tuesday 7 July 2009 at 8:15 am

    Pre-Game Online Tells

    When most poker players think about tells, they visualize physical actions that occur at the table. For example, the way an opponent’s hands start shaking whenever he has the nuts or the way he handles his chips in certain situations. Online players don’t have this sort of information to work with, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t tells in online play. There’s actually a great deal of information that an observant player can pick up on, and much of it can be discovered before you even sit down at a table. I call these important first impressions “pre-game tells.”

    One of the most important pre-game tells is the size of your opponent’s buy-in. Whenever I sit down at a table, the first thing I look at is how much my opponents have bought in for in relation to the maximum amount allowed at that table. Most advanced players tend to buy in for as close to the table maximum as possible. They prefer to have as many chips on the table as they can, which gives them plenty of ammunition for bullying their opponents, bluffing, and semi-bluffing.

    Weaker and inexperienced players are more inclined to buy in for a much smaller amount, often closer to the table minimum. By buying in short, weaker players are hoping to protect themselves from suffering a huge loss. What they don’t realize is that the more experienced players at the table are going to pick up on this sign of weakness. When I’m selecting a table, these are the types of players I’m looking to sit next to because they generally play scared.  Be careful, though, because there are players who buy in for less than the table maximum that are actually winning players.

    When you’re playing on Full Tilt Poker, you can also gauge how experienced your opponents are by simply looking around the table and observing if any of the players possess an Iron Man chip. This chip is awarded to players who play a certain amount of hands each day, in effect rewarding them for being grinders. Because these players play so often, they have spent many hours working on their games and they tend to be some of the better players on the site.  If you are able to earn an Iron Man chip yourself, you may consider removing the icon so you don’t advertise that you are a serious player.

    Another way to find more information about the players sitting at your table is to use Full Tilt Poker’s “Find a Player” feature. Simply click on the “Requests” tab in the lobby, select “Find a Player” and then type in your opponents’ screen names. By doing this, you can find out how many tables each of your opponents is sitting at, which can be an extremely telling bit of information. If one of your opponents is multi-tabling, playing at four or more tables at once, he will generally be a solid player, and quite often you will find that players who play this many tables at once are professionals.

    When you add all this information together, it can tell you a great deal about a certain player’s level of experience. If the player you’re interested in bought in for the maximum amount, is sporting an Iron Man chip next to his avatar and is playing at eight tables at once, all signs point towards him being a very solid player, which is something you should keep in mind when you are playing a pot against this player. If most of the table fits this description, you might even consider selecting a different table to play at. On the other hand, if a player bought in for half of the maximum buy-in, doesn’t have an Iron Man Chip, and is only playing at one table, chances are he’s an inexperienced player and you’ll probably want to play as many pots with him as you can.

    Because all of this information can be gleaned before you even play a single hand, you would be wise to use it when deciding which table you want to play at. Doing this will greatly increase your chances of having a winning session.

    Taylor Caby


    Sit & Gos Made Easy

    Posted under Pro Tips by on Tuesday 7 July 2009 at 8:12 am

    Sit & Gos Made Easy

    Howard Lederer

    The Sit & Go (SNG) is online poker’s great gift to the aspiring tournament player. Prior to the SNG, final table experience was hard to come by. You could enter a dozen multi-table tournaments and never find yourself at a final table. Or you could make one or two, only to get knocked out in 8th or 9th place. Adapting to an ever-diminishing number of players at a single table is a crucial skill in tournament poker, and it’s a hard experience to find offline without investing a lot of time and money. Online, this experience is a mouse-click away. The SNG’s advantages are many. For starters, it’s low-cost, or even free. It’s also fun, and convenient: You don’t need to schedule it — a SNG starts every time the table fills up — and it’s usually over in less than an hour. It’s the flight simulator of final table play, and mastering it should be considered mandatory homework for the serious student.

    Now that you know why you should play, let’s look at how:

    The most obvious difference between a SNG and a multi-table tournament is that when someone goes broke in a SNG, there isn’t someone waiting to fill their spot. Multi-table play consists mostly of full-table, ring game poker. But as players get eliminated from a SNG, the table gets shorter- and shorter-handed. This reduction in players basically serves to artificially raise the antes. For instance, say you’re playing five-handed and the blinds are 100-200: You’re paying 300 in blinds for every five hands, or 60 per hand. As soon as someone gets knocked out, you’re four-handed. Now you’re paying 75 per hand — a 25% increase — despite the fact that the blinds have remained the same. Accordingly, you’re forced to gamble more, or risk getting blinded out.

    Since the size of the blinds relative to your stack size should always play a major role in your hand selection, I recommend starting out with pretty conservative starting hand requirements. This serves two functions: First, the blinds dictate that you play fairly tight early; the blinds are small and you are nine-handed, so they don’t come around as often. Second, this helps you establish a tight image, which you hope will pay off later when the blinds are high and you might really need a timely ante steal.

    But there’s another not-so-obvious reason to play tighter earlier and looser later: The payout structure rewards tight play. Most SNG’s pay 50% to first, 30% to second, and 20% to third. This payout structure dictates that you play for third. Why? Looking at the payout structure another way might help. Basically, the payout means that 60% gets awarded once you’re down to three players, 20% gets awarded when you get down to two players, and the final 20% gets awarded to the winner. If you can just get to third, you get at least one-third of 60% of the prize pool, or 20%. You’ve locked up a profit, and you have a chance to win up to 30% more. It’s only now that you’re in the top three that your strategy should take an abrupt turn. Now it pays to gamble for the win. Let’s look at the numbers again: 60% of the prize pool is off the table, and moving up one spot is worth only another 10%. But move up just one more spot and it’s worth a whopping 30% extra — that’s three times more for first than it is for second. And with the blinds going up, gambling for the win is even more clearly the correct play.

    I see many players employ a nearly opposite strategy. They figure they have nothing to lose, so they go for the quick double-up early. They take chances too soon when, in their view, there’s “nothing on the line”. Then, once they’re in the money, they tighten up, thinking about that extra payout for moving up a spot. If you start to rethink your SNG approach and adopt a “slow early, fast late” strategy, you’ll see an almost immediate improvement in your results.

    Best of luck and see you at the tables.


    WSOP Brings Fanfare, Major Events

    Posted under Poker News by on Tuesday 7 July 2009 at 5:33 am

    IVEY WINS SIXTH WSOP BRACELET

    One of the toughest poker players on the planet, Phil Ivey, returned to WSOP bracelet glory by taking down Event No. 6 at the 2009 WSOP, $2,500 no-limit deuce-to-seven draw. This event featured a small but elite field and dozens of poker’s biggest names, and Ivey collected his sixth career bracelet and $96,361 by outlasting veteran John Monnette.

    ‘T SOPRANO’ BECOMES 2009 DOUBLE BRACELET WINNER

    In each of the last ten years, at least one poker player has managed to win two or more events at the World Series of Poker. Online star Brock ‘t soprano’ Parker assured that the streak will continue at least into the 2010s by capturing two events early in the ‘09 Series. Parker won his first-ever bracelet in Event No. 14, $2,500 Six-Handed Limit Hold ‘em, coming from behind to defeat Daniel Negreanu during heads-up play. From there it was on to Event No. 19, $2,500 Six-Handed No-Limit Hold ‘em, where he triumphed again for a ‘daily doubl… Continue reading WSOP Brings Fanfare, Major Events


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